Surfing at Pacific City, Oregon.

Surfing at the beach in Pacific City; Haystack Rock is in the background.

The word "surfing" makes me think of the iconic images related to the sport.  You know the ones, a young person is on a freshly waxed board hanging 10 inside a large curling wave.  The truth is that most people that surf will never experience the thrill of that moment.  The idea equates somewhat to heliskiing, base jumping in a flight suit, or cave diving.  All these require nerves of steel and extreme confidence and skill.  Anything less than this and you are asking for an early grave.

There is an important thought here.  It is the idea that participating and enjoying the experience is often enough.  You don't have to do more than what your comfort level dictates.  I am all for being safe and enjoying things without putting myself at risk.  People who ski are usually content with working the regular slopes and not having to hit the double black diamond runs to feel they accomplished something.  Flying in a glider harnessed to a trained guide can itself be the thrill of a lifetime.  For surfers, the three-foot swells are often enough to satisfy the need to engage them.

I will never accomplish anything at the extreme level.  All my activities, including my photography, are done with the idea in mind of getting out and enjoying the world around me.  I don't have to be the best, or even excellent.  I just have to be there and have fun.  Its what most of us do in reality.  And really, that is enough.

Thanks for reading.   www.ericspix.com